Ultimate guide to Bee Removal

Ultimate guide to Bee Removal

This is a step-by-step approach to removing bees. With over 20 years of experience in beekeeping and removing bees I have put together this guide to safely remove bees. After seeing countless failed attempts and poor removals done by pest control companies and amateur beekeepers this guide is not only educational but the authoritative correct way for live bee removal.

Typically, bees prefer areas such as soffits or roofline eves to build a hive. Scout bees from a recent honey bee swarm will investigate the area and relay the information back to the swarm. Once the swarm has decided to move thousands of bees take flight in a cloud of honeybees to their new location. Sometimes the queen due to age or inability to fly long distances will take a rest on a nearby tree in the form of a swarm. If this is the case, please review our section on swarm removal.

Equipment

Now that you have found the areas affected by bees you will need the proper equipment to remove bees. A bee suit or vail provides ample protection from stings, Gloves with gauntlets preferably thick PVC due to honey but beekeeping gloves, tools such as hammers, Sawzall, screw guns and a paint scraper to remove honey bee comb from the hive, a five gallon bucket for comb, a smaller bucket if you want to save honey (Do not save or eat honey comb or honey if the beehive has been treated with any chemicals), a ladder to access bees, a bee vacuum to remove bees (specialized low pressure vacuums that will safely relocate bees), a hive box or nuc box to store the relocated bees, drawn frames and a lot of luck. It is also best practice to remove bees in the early spring when possible before the flower bloom or nectar flow as this will be best for the bees and significantly less sticky mess from honey. Ideal temperature for bee removal is between 60-80 degrees as bees are sensitive to temperature especially brood.

To safely remove bees, you must first find the hive location.

Bees tend to build within structures such as soffits or eves of homes especially older houses in the south because the lack of physical barriers within the structures such as insulation and poor building materials used to construct homes. Bees also will capitalize on compromised housing structure due to weather or animal damage allowing them access to the area. Visible signs of bees coming and going from a location or running a b-line is a clear sign of honey bee infestation. Carpenter bees and wasps are significantly less in number and / or solo. A specialized thermal camera is recommended when viewing a bee hive as it will provide a clear picture of the size of the hive and the relative location of the hive.

Once you have identified the location size of the beehive make sure you have the proper equipment to safely move the honeybees. This may include adding trash bags or buckets to dispose of the comb or frames if you want to save the comb when removing (not recommended due to the numerous diseases of honey bees SEE Diseases of bees)

Honeybee Removal

When removing honey bees, the best time is at dusk and dawn most of the bees will be inside their hive. If you have aggressive, hot or Africanized bees it is best to remove during the day as most of the bees will be gone pollinating flowers and gathering nectar.

Before you start smoke the bees preferably the day before removal and then right before you begin the work.

Also have plan on how to remove the material from the area with the bees. We recommend going through the roofline as it does the least amount of visual damage to the area, but you do run the risk of a leaking roof if you do not reassemble the area correctly. Some beekeepers recommend cutting the Soffit or eve of a house to remove bees. Just make sure the cuts are professional and repairable cut on the seams or bull soffits down by the seams so that they are easily reparable. DO not cut out directly under the hive. Cut around it. The piece you remove ideally to access the hive will be one piece with minimal cutting and easily repairable with minimal damage or unsightly scarring.

Once you have opened the area you can start to remove the bees. I recommend starting to remove comb on the outside (one side) farthest back area of the hive forcing the bees forward and cluster the honeybees in an aera close to the entrance. Scrape the comb with the paint scraper at the top of the comb careful not to break uncapped honey cells or capped honey. You can also remove brood comb by following under the capped or uncapped honey line which will be mostly at the top. IF you choose to save brood comb inspect for small hive beetles wax moths or other pests of honeybees. Dispose of un wanted comb after brushing off bees. Continue to work removing brood comb (you can save some with lots of brood for frames.

If this is a case set sections aside or have a helper immediately place it in the hive box. Separate comb from the honeycomb new comb from older darker comb. New comb will be lighter and much more delicate. This clean comb is highly useable and is the best comb to save. As you remove comb work the bees into a pile at the front of the hive entrance. This will make for an easier clean up. Bees will fan their abdomen when you remove signaling for other bees to gather. If you strategically move bees or prevent them from doing this behavior in unwanted areas bees will cluster in ideal spots. Also keep an eye out for the queen. If you capture the queen immediate put her in a queen clip between your hive frames and place the hive box by the entrance. The bees will gather around her in your hive box.

Once the comb is removed you should have an empty cavity with a pile of bees. If the cluster is at the back of the cavity, you may be able to vacuum or use chemical such as Bee Go or Bee Be Gone to move bees forward. Remember if you are using chemical and it is not your property a Certified Applicator license may be needed in your state. Some states even require permits to remove bees. So do your homework. Vacuuming bees should be limited and if bees can be swept using a bee brush it is best to do this. I recommend a Colorado bee vac. These bee vacuums are expensive but highly effective and durable.

I have also seen the use of air hoses to move bees out of cavities. Bees should be immediately transferred from the vacuum to the hive box. Do not leave bees in the vacuum unattended or in the heat.

Now that you have your bees removed and an empty cavity it is ideal to scrape out all remaining beeswax from the hive. You can treat the area with vinegar, dust such as Tempo 1%, Boric acid or powdered insecticides. Painting the inside of the area is ideal as this will cover the smell of the beehive and prevent future infestations. If it is possible such as a soffit or other area fill the area with expanding foam, or insulation which will also prevent the hive from coming back.

The queen bee

If you caught the queen, you are in for a treat. By this time your bees should be balled up on the hive you placed by the original entrance. Gently close them in the box and move them.

Now it is time to put everything back together. Bricks should be mortared back in place. Soffits sealed with expanding foam and or caulk and all evidence of the removal removed. Your bees must also be removed more than three miles from the location of the original hive as to not come back to the area. Set your hive with drawn comb and a feeder in a good location two feet off the ground facing east with good sun. You can feed back extracted honey or use in hive feeders with 1.1 white sugar water by weight or 2/3 sugar to 1/3 water by visual inspection. Do not boil water when adding sugar as burnt sugar can be harmful for bees. Heat water until it dissolves.

In a few days check your bees they should be soundly attached to the frames doing their bee dance. Look for the queen and add a queen if necessary. If you cannot find the queen look for signs of newly laid eggs in the bottom of each cell.

For beekeeping basics or other beekeeping help call our write our office at [email protected] We teach monthly beekeeping classes and are always willing to help you https://thebeerescue.com.

We also offer Bee Proofing and preventative services.

Bee proofing your home or business will prevent future bee squatters, and you and your neighborhood bees can live in harmony. We seal up holes check woodpiles, brush and other places bees might use to build a hive in your home as a preventative measure to avoid the bee removal process in the future. Scout bees don’t like it when we seal up cracks and crevices. Our preventative services also prevent a deterrent to yellow jacket wasps and hornets. Ask our technicians about this service

Our locally owned and operated company has a commitment to our customers "treat everything like it was your house" and "Always do the right thing."

Think of us next time you search for "Bee removal near me" or beehive removal first! If you have questions email or call, we are always here for our customers.